Pinball & Arcade Parts
A machine from the seventies or eighties is held together by mouldings nobody has tooled in forty years — a cracked apron, a missing lane guide, a coin door bezel that went brittle and crumbled in your hand. Those are worth recreating. The parts that meet a steel ball at speed are a different conversation.
Serving South & West Yorkshire and nearby, and posting parts across the UK · Guide prices in seconds · No account needed
Get a pinball & arcade parts estimate
Upload your file or describe the part. We review printability before confirming anything.
Common uses
- Obsolete cabinet and backbox fittings, trim and end caps
- Coin door bezels, cointrack fittings and coin mech surrounds
- Posts, post caps, sleeves and playfield spacers
- Apron parts, card holders and lane guide blanks
- Playfield plastic blanks cut to shape, ready for repro artwork
- Leg protectors, lockdown bar fittings and side rail trim
Cosmetic and non-mechanical only
A pinball machine fires a steel ball at things, thousands of times an evening, for decades. That fact sets the boundary. We do not print playfield-critical mechanisms — no flipper bats, cranks or links, no plunger or shooter rod parts, no drop target banks, no pop bumper mechanism, no ball trough components. When one of those fails the machine does not just play badly, it damages itself. We do not print anything mains-facing either: no fuse holders, no plug or transformer housings, no part being asked to keep mains away from a finger. Filament is not an insulation-rated or flame-retardant-rated material and a games room is not the place to test that theory. And we do not print anything that takes ball strike repeatedly. A printed part is layered, and layered plastic chips and crazes where an injection moulding just marks — so a printed part in a strike position will wear faster than the original, visibly and fairly quickly. There is one more thing worth saying plainly, because it disappoints people: we can make the blank, but we cannot make the artwork. The original playfield plastics are screen-printed onto clear acrylic sheet. We can reproduce the shape, the holes and the thickness in opaque filament — useful as a pattern, a stand-in or a backer — but the graphics are a job for a repro plastics printer, and a printed part will not be clear. Buy the repro set for anything on show, and ask us for the fittings behind it.
Recreating a moulding from what is left of it
Send the broken part, in pieces if that is all there is, or the intact one from the other side of the cabinet, or measurements and photos with a rule in shot. The details that decide whether a copy works are the fixings: post spacing, playfield hole centres, and the hardware itself — most of these machines are American, so the fasteners are imperial, and a 6-32 or 8-32 thread with the wrong pitch is a part that does not fit. Tell us the machine and the part number if you have them, and tell us if a T-nut or a captive fastener is involved. We model it, share the file so you can offer it up against the playfield before anything is printed in quantity, and print once you are happy.
Materials for a machine that runs hot
The question is always what the part sits next to. If your machine still runs incandescent general illumination rather than an LED conversion, anything near a lamp socket gets genuinely warm over an evening, and PLA will sag — this is the single most common way a printed pinball part fails. PETG is the sensible default for cabinet and playfield fittings. ABS or ASA where it is warmer, and ASA if the machine lives somewhere the sun reaches it. Nylon is worth considering for a fitting that has to flex and grip repeatedly. Colour is worth mentioning too: a printed part will not match a forty-year-old moulding that has yellowed under lamps, so where a set is on show, replacing all of them so they match each other usually looks better than matching one to the past.
How it works
Send your file or describe the part
Upload an STL, OBJ, 3MF or STEP file, or tell us what you need with photos and a few measurements.
Get a guide price
When we can read the geometry we estimate from it straight away — material, print time, supports and quantity all priced openly.
We check printability, then confirm
A person reviews orientation, wall thickness and supports, flags anything that will not print well, and confirms your final quote before any work starts.
Pinball & Arcade Parts — example prices
Worked examples on real models from our print library, priced by the same calculator that estimates your own part. Sizes span small to large so you can see how cost moves with the part.
| Example part | Size | PLA | PETG | ABS / ASA |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| M4 Washer | 12 × 12 × 2 mm | £0.09 – £0.12 | £0.10 – £0.13 | £0.11 – £0.14 |
| Standoff M4x15 | 10 × 10 × 15 mm | £0.34 – £0.44 | £0.36 – £0.46 | £0.41 – £0.53 |
| Wing Nut M8 | 46 × 18 × 10 mm | £1.21 – £1.54 | £1.28 – £1.63 | £1.43 – £1.83 |
| Control Knob (large) | 45 × 45 × 20 mm | £7.89 – £10.08 | £8.25 – £10.55 | £9.02 – £11.52 |
Guide prices for a single unit, calculated from the measured geometry of each example model — not fixed quotes. Small parts land at or near the £0 minimum order, and per-unit prices fall with quantity. Your price depends on your own part, its material and its printability. How pricing works.
Example models for pinball & arcade parts
Open-source designs from our print library that show the kind of part this service suits. View any of them for a full material and quantity price breakdown.
Corner Brace (small)
Control Knob (large)
Bench Hook
Gusseted Shelf Bracket (large)
These are open-source example designs (CC0) we publish to show what the process suits and what it costs — not a record of past jobs. Prices shown are examples in PLA.
Pinball & Arcade Parts — FAQ
Can you print a flipper bat, a drop target or a pop bumper part?+
No. Those are the mechanisms that take the ball and make the machine play, and a printed one will wear out of tolerance quickly and can damage the playfield on the way. Aftermarket parts exist for most of them and they are the right answer. Ask us for the fittings around them instead.
Can you reproduce the artwork on a playfield plastic?+
No. The originals are screen-printed on clear acrylic; we print opaque filament and we cannot print the graphics. We can make the blank — shape, holes, thickness — which is useful as a pattern or a backer, but for anything on show buy the repro set.
Will a printed post or fitting last as long as the original?+
Usually not, and we will not pretend otherwise. Layered plastic wears faster than an injection moulding, especially anywhere the ball touches. In a low-impact position and the right material it will run for years; in a strike position, treat it as a stopgap while a proper part is sourced.
Can you do coin door and cointrack bits?+
Yes — that is squarely in scope. Bezels, surrounds, cointrack fittings, blanking plates and trim are non-mechanical, out of the ball's way and mostly unobtainable, which is exactly the combination this suits. Send the original or the measurements.
How much does pinball & arcade parts cost?+
There is no fixed per-item rate — price comes from how much plastic the part uses, how long it takes to print, how much support and finishing it needs, and how many you want. The example table above shows what real parts of this kind work out at. Upload your file for a guide price on your own part.
How long does it take?+
It depends on the size of the part, the queue and the material. Tell us your deadline when you enquire and we will tell you honestly whether it is achievable before you commit.
Can I order one of the models from your library?+
Yes. Every model in our print library is a design you can have printed — pick one, choose a material and quantity, and the example price on its page is your starting point. You can also download the file and take it elsewhere; they are all CC0.
Are my files kept private?+
Yes. Uploaded files go to private storage, are never made public, and are only used to quote and produce your job.
Worth reading first
Practical guides that help you get a better part and a more accurate quote.
What Is TPU (Flexible Filament)?
TPU is printable rubber. It bends, grips, seals and absorbs shock — and it behaves nothing like PLA, which is the whole point and the whole difficulty.
Nylon and Carbon Fibre Parts
The engineering end of FDM. Nylon is tough and wear-resistant; carbon fibre makes it stiff and stable. Both are harder work — here is when that pays off.
How to Copy a Part Without CAD
No file, no drawing, just a broken part and a pair of calipers. That is a perfectly normal starting point — here is how the process actually works.
Other services
Get a 3D print estimate
Upload your file or describe the part. We review printability before confirming anything.